A $2 return trip (OK, I paid $3) to travel 126km
I'm a travel writer now
What does $1 get you today?
A frozen coke from McDonald’s, 20 minutes of parking in Dunedin’s CBD, or an Instant Kiwi ticket.
Instantly forgettable use of your money.
But what if I told you that you could spend $1 on a 63km bus journey to another town!!!!!!
My name is Hamish McNeilly and this is my TedTalk.
I won’t say I woke up in a bad mood, but the All Whites’ World Cup playoff against Costa Rica certainly sealed the deal (I’m looking at you FIFA).
That mood wasn’t helped by parking in the central city and finding all nearby meters were out for credit card payments.
I had a coin in my pocket, but that was reserved for the aforementioned bus ride.
With 10 minutes to go until my bus was due, I made the decision to leg it - parking ticket be damned (sorry DCC!).
I arrived at the bus hub on Gt King St which was surprisingly busy for a winter’s morning, and made my way to the beautifully worded: ‘Bus Stop E’.
Just a few minutes after the designated departure time (8.40am), the bus arrived with ‘Palmerston’ written boldly across its screen.
I was one of five passengers to board, and the only one to pay in cash.
Normally that ride would be just $1 for those who had a Bee Card, but to Bee or not to Bee would cost an extra 50 cents.
I went all in, and handed over a $2 coin and got my ticket.
As I went to the back of the bus I realised I never got my change: I’m so used to paying with cards I’d forgotten the art of the deal. IDIOT!
Never fear because the bus driver walked to the back of the bus and handed me a 50 cent piece. I thanked him and said he could have kept it, but he said it would just end-up in the Otago Regional Council’s coffers (sorry ratepayers!).
We were off.
My aim was to ride arguably the cheapest bus ride in the country; $1 for 62km of travel (for those smart enough to have a Bee Card) seems like excellent value.
That trip would include Waitati, Karitane, Waikouaiti before arriving at Palmerston’s Bond St at 9.45am, just over an hour since it departed from Dunedin.
My first mistake was sitting on the left side, rather than the coastal side heading north, but I get to see the NZTA sign urging drivers to ‘Share the drive home’, so all wasn’t lost.
The initial trip over the Kilmog made me feel like I was back on the autobahn, with late model cars overtaking at us at what seemed like great speed.
It was very relaxing not to drive, as I cleared some work emails and admired some of the scenery that an elevated position (and not driving) gives you.
The first major stop is at Waitati, where the local garage is selling Holy Cow milk and Evansdale cheese.
No one gets on.
On the road again and we pass Arc Brewery, and I make a mental note to return there as the last time was pre-Covid when my family stayed at the local ‘spaceship house’ in Warrington.
The bus soon passes a sign on SH1 that demands a stop to Three Waters before alleging ‘DCC Mafia’. Goodness.
We pull into Karitane and the sun is shimmering across the water while the local dairy has ‘Happy Birthday Doug & Fiona’ written on a sign.
Passing Waikouaiti and I can see Beano’s Bakery with a steady stream of customers. Mental note: needs a bus stop outside.
All of a sudden we’re in Palmerston, with a sign noting it is home to Courtney Duncan - motocross superstar.
I get off the bus with a ‘thank you’ to the driver and to take some pictures. The bus driver also gets off and gives me some travel tips. ‘Thank you’ again!
I call Waihemo Board chair Heather McGregor, and soon we are having a coffee (she orders a hot chocolate) before a welcoming fire at The Coffee Cup Cafe, which has a sign saying ‘Mutton pies sold here’ out the front.
She has lived in the town for three decades, and is almost a local.
“They often say unless your grandparents are in the local cemetery, you are not a local.”
The town’s population was about 948, with a median age of 50.9 according to Stats NZ.
That same site shows that, according to the 2018 census, only 1.8% of residents caught a public bus.
That might be about to change.
McGregor was yet to use the service, but noted how full the services were in the morning, with workers increasingly opting to take a bus to Dunedin rather than drive the 45 minutes.
That $1 fare was favourable to filling up a car, with a local service station having 91 for $2.88 a litre.
Those who wanted to visit from Dunedin were recommended to make a day of it, including walking up Puketapu Mountain.
Each October there is a local race dubbed ‘Kelly’s Canter’ where participants run up and down in remembrance of former police officer Bert Kelly.
Kelly used to run up the hill to keep an eye on enemy ships during World War II.
While some could run to the top and back in 20 minutes, a more leisurely walk would take three times that.
It also features a memorial to Sir John McKenzie. You can read about him here.
The summit offered a panoramic view of the surrounding area, stunning coastlines and rolling hills. Just try to pick a clear day and avoid lambing season.
The town was proving popular with families, with many commuting to Dunedin or to the nearby Macraes Mine, 30km inland.
The town had beaches nearby, good for swimming and surfing, while the wider area was known for hunting and fishing.
“But you need a vehicle to get there.”
A mountain bike track was under development. Next time I’ll bring my bike.
I have 30 minutes left and wander through the streets calling into the local museum, which doubles as the base for Puketapu Radio.
George Eltherington moved to Palmerston in December, to be closer to his Dunedin-based son.
“It is a wonderful community here in Palmerston,” the volunteer DJ says, as he plays back to back hits by the Doobie Brothers.
The radio station may be on 756 AM but is also available over the world wide web.
With ten minutes to go until the bus arrived, I buy some $2 hand sanitizer from the chemist, which has its heat pump cranked up, to make some change.
The bus stop is across the road from the former train station, illustrating in just 20 metres the rise and fall of New Zealand public transport.
Hey, and if you want to buy it, here is a story about it.
I’m back on the bus (with the correct change), and by 12pm I arrive back in Dunedin.
A $2 return trip (OK, I paid $3) clocking up around 126 km.
Back in September 2020 the Otago Regional Council (ORC) introduced a flat fee in an effort to stimulate travel during the pandemic.
That meant those with a Bee Card travelled for $2, no matter the journey.
But in April the ORC adopted the half-price fare initiative, meaning good people like you and me get to go to Palmerston and back for just $2 (OK, OK, OK $3).
This ends in August, so get in!
The Palmerston route, which has been going for three months, was the cheapest by distance on the ORC network, and includes three return trips each weekday,
A new weekend service, which was funded by bus user fares and the ORC, started last month, and was developed in conjunction with the Waikouaiti Coast Community Board.
An ORC spokesperson said the council had one of the highest patronage rebounds in the country, following the outbreak of the Covid pandemic.
Now, time to get that Bee Card.
And that has been my TedTalk*.
*Not quite. I’m introducing a new Saturday newsletter of The Mish. Keep an eye on your inbox.
**and here is the Tweet of the Week…
FYI it is Kelly's Canter - like a run.
The heater at the train station will be a waste of time wouldn't it seeing as none stop there for fare paying punters?
Sounds like a good "Mish" out to Palmy.
Another good ep in my inbox - 4 and a half stars!
"The first major stop is at Waitati, where the local garage is selling Holy Cow milk and Evansdale cheese. I naturally wince at the cost of petrol"
I'm a bit puzzled by this because we don't have a petrol station (or garage) in Waitati. The building used to be a garage but is now an on the spot dairy.